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we’ve been doing this since before the roman empire dammit
The History of Korean Alcohol Production
part one of three
In this series, we’ll explore the implications of Hallyu, the explosion of global marketability of commercial Korean-ness, and specifically mass-market soju’s unprecedented rise in international popularity in later articles. But in order to understand the context of Korean alcohol in the modern day world of food and beverage, we must first discuss the history of Korean alcohol production and consumption.
Just like art history or music history, the history of alcohol production is intimately tied to the overall contextual history of the Korean peninsula. I find that most English-language speaking audiences aren’t familiar with Korean history beyond Hallyu and the US involvement in the Korean War, if that, so come with me and let’s go through the (known) history of the Korean people and the beverages they drank. Yes, all 5000 years of it. Let’s go.
Paleoanthropological beginnings
So far in modern scholarship, it’s estimated that a distinct Korean culture began to take root roughly 700,000 years ago in the Lower Paleolithic era as a branch of the Northern Mongolian ethnic group first settled the Korean Peninsula.
The roots of the first Korean nation was formed during the Neolithic and Bronze age as the Dong-Yi or Han tribe spanning northeastern China arrived in the Peninsula and merged with the Northern Mongolians. Over time, other ethnic groups would migrate and mingle with each other as well.
Although much of Korean archaeology has been disrupted by conquest and systematic colonial destruction, the Korean people are one of the oldest in Asia and indeed, in the world. The unique geography of Manchuria and the Korean peninsula predisposed the people to foreign influences, and although much of it were hostile and destructive forces on an already struggling people, it became part of the cultural tapestry. We take pride in a long, rich tradition and cultural heritage steeped in millennia of history.
Early examples of Korean pottery dates as far back as 8000 BC, beginning a storied and precious tradition of artistry that would literally shape beverages. With the introduction of pottery wheel and kiln firing technology from China, more advanced styles of pottery would be produced in the Three Kingdoms period.
Semi-mythological beginnings: the Early States
As castes—the powerful and their subjects—and the idea of private property developed in the Bronze Age, early settlements grew into cities and then developed into city-states, collectively referred to as the Early Kingdoms of Korea. These included: Gojoseon (literally translated as Old Korea), Buyeo, Okjeo, Eastern Ye, Mahan, Jinhan, and Byeonhan.
Advanced agricultural iron implements and tools were used in these states; agriculture, stock farming, and fishery were well developed. These states prospered economically and actively traded with distant cultures.
Bangjja, hand-forged brass tableware introduced in Bronze-age Gojoseon and still currently produced today
Hwanung, the bear, and the tiger
Silla Kingdom: 신라, 新羅
57 BCE-935 CE
Kim Yushin Gaya Descendant
The Three (and one) Kingdoms: 57 BCE-668CE
At its height, the Kingdom of Silla spanned the eastern half of the Korean peninsula, and along with Baekje and Goguryeo, was one of the (first) Three Kingdoms of Korea. Silla had the lowest population of the three although it was the second largest in area.
Known in its own time as Saro, Sara, or Seorabeol, Silla’s semi-mythological foundation is traced back to refugees of the fall of Gojoseon, who lived in villages clustered in the valleys of present-day South Korea. In 69 BCE (at least according to this 12th century source) the village chiefs gathered to discuss selecting a king, and in a nearby forest, an incredible light appeared in the sky—the sun and the moon rose together at the same time as an volcanic eruption, and a white horse descended from the light. A large egg was found where the horse had landed, and the boy that hatched from the egg grew up to be Hyeokgeose of the Park clan, the founding monarch of the country (and traditionally held to be the progenitor of all Park clans in modern Korea).
Militarily, Silla began as a small chiefdom called Saro-guk in the Jinhan confederacy, part of the Samhan, and after consolidating its power, conquered the Gaya confederacy.
A centralized monarchy emerged around 380 CE with Naemul of the Kim clan who established a hereditary monarchy, and Silla political society is one of the first instances in the history of the peninsula that saw a codified system of social status and the governance thereof. The rigid, highly-detailed system nearly comprehensively dictated aspects of life down to clothing, the size of homes, and marriage.
The Kingdom of Silla eventually unified the nation by conquering Baekje in 660 and Goguryeo in 668. In doing so the Unified Silla Kingdom now accounted for most of the Korean Peninsula. Meanwhile the northern part of the peninsula not officially claimed by Silla became Balhae, a successor-state of Goguryeo, making it the spiritual successor to Gojoseon.
The modern city of Seoul is named for a shortened form of Seorabeol, and while there have been several formal names for the city,“Seoul” has been used continuously from Silla times until present day.
The indigenous spirituality of Korea was always one of the most important aspects in Silla society and culture, and indeed even when Buddhism was adopted as the official state religion, it was syncretized with the pre-existing ethnic spirituality of the people. Its influences are still integral to the very fabric of Korean culture, and its ancient rites and ceremonies even mark current major national holidays like Seollal and Chuseok.
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Baekje
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military flag of goguryeo
Goguryeo kingdom: 37 BCE—668 CE
Successful in repelling the aggression of China’s Sui Dynasty (581-618 CE) and Tang Dynasty (618-907CE)
n addition to Gojoseon’s vast territory which encompassed Manchuria and the Korean Peninsula, the introduction of iron implements during the 4th century BCE turned it into a powerful state. However, an invasion by Yen forced Gojoseon to shift its territory southward to the Daedong River region. When Wiman ascended to the throne of Gojoseon, relationships with China became increasingly hostile.
In the end, an invasion was launched by Emperor Wu of Han, and Gojoseon fell to China in 108 BC. Four Chinese Commanderies were set up in the former territory of Gojoseon. However, the strong resistance by the people of Korea led to the abolishment of two of the four administrative units, and in 313 CE, the last remaining Nangnang (Lelang) Commandery fell as well. The traditions and culture of Gojoseon were passed down to Goguryeo.
Dae Gaya
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Silla Kingdom
Balhae (698-926) ruled over a vast territory extnding to the north as far as Siberia.
Goryeo (918-1392 AD): celadon
Diaspora Koreans were forced to relocate to Central Asia by the order of Stalin, called Goryeo People